Asprokavos Monastery, Cape and Beach

For those who like to travel on foot, start your route from the southern part of the island – Asprokavo. The Venetians called this part “Cavo Bianco”, translated from Italian – White Cape, and the Greeks renamed it Asprokavos (aspro – from the Greek “white”).

I probably won’t say anything new about Asprokavos Beach – it’s a wonderful, long, wide stretch of sand between the mountains, where in June large sea turtles bury their eggs in the sand. For several years now, from about June to the end of September, one young guy has been setting up sunbeds, umbrellas, and a small kiosk where you can buy drinks. But if you need peace and quiet – go further.

Don’t miss the path to the Panagia Arkoudilas Monastery. The half-abandoned walls and buildings, old fortifications, openings, a vaulted defensive building, a bell tower, and stairs leading somewhere to heaven invite you to use your imagination and travel back in time to the 17th century.

The hike up here is difficult, but worth it – the view over the steep hill (about 125 m above sea level) to the Ionian Sea and the island of Paxos is unique.

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The name of the place Arkoudila is probably very old. It was mentioned in a notarial deed in 1562. The word itself could have come from the word arcouda (from the Greek “bear”), but most likely not because of the bears, which never existed here, but from the name of a tree (some of the large trees that grew here were called bear trees by the locals).

Others say it is a combination of the words: Arcos , meaning “defense” and  dilon, “ a space suitable for defense.” The location is suitable for a hideout due to the dense forest – people from the nearest settlements could hide here from pirate attacks. 

There are several legends about who built the monastery. It is said that it was built by a noble woman, and her sister built a monastery in Lefkimmi at the same time (Kyros ton Angelon Monastery). Another version is that the monasteries were built by two brothers at the same time.

The monastery was to be renovated or completed in 1710. According to the census of 1753, the church belonged  to the family of Philippe Quartan . This is an aristocratic old Italian family, recorded at that time in the Golden Book of the Nobility (“Libro D`oro”). Above the entrance gate, where the bell tower once stood, the coat of arms of the Quartan family can be seen –
a hand holding a pomegranate, an ear of wheat and a grape. These are symbols of the three seasons – spring, summer and autumn. “Winter” is not on the coat of arms, because poverty, bad weather conditions and general decline prevail in winter. The name of the Quartan family comes from the Italian word combination “quarta no” – there is no fourth (there is no fourth season).

Next to the monastery stood a tower called the Door, where monks used to take refuge from pirates. Next to the bell tower are the stairs that led to the tower. Local elders say that an underground corridor was dug to the seashore. 

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About 40 years ago, after a terrible storm, the roof of the building collapsed. The monks moved out. There were plans to rebuild the monastery, but… the crisis postponed the implementation of the plans.

Now, on August 15, the day of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, local Greeks come to the monastery and light candles in the chapel nearby. It is believed that here one should pray for those who are sick, and those people will be healed. The small stylized church was built by a family whose daughter recovered from an incurable illness.

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By the way, after visiting the monastery, do not turn back the same way, but go deeper through the forest. Now there are signs there, and you will come out onto the main road almost by the beach. The trail will definitely impress you.